Bottoms Up in Versatile Swimwear

Andy Smith READ TIME: 5 MIN.

Fit and function are the themes for beachwear this summer, with a range of swimwear and shorts that will take you from the pool to dining to casual outdoor events. Shorts you can swim in - rather than variations on traditional swim trunks that you change out of - are becoming a resort wear standard for upscale brands like West London's Orlebar Brown and St. Tropez-based Vilebrequin, with locations in Houston, Beverly Hills, DC and New York.

With locations in SoHo, East Hampton and Miami, Orlebar Brown's designs - which come in waist sizes (30, 32, etc.) rather than S, L, and XL - are based on breeds of dogs, including setter, bulldog, and Dane. Of course, Dane is the longest, landing just above the knee.

In classic, fitted and long styles, Vilebrequin offers fits for any body type, and fish, shrimp, turtles, coral and other marine life show up in a lot of this year's pieces. For extra measure, while wearing your suit, impress your friends with the knowledge that the name Vilebrequin means "crankshaft" en Fran�ais.

Mr. Turk and DanWard are two brands with lively, well-designed options. For 2017, Mr. Turk includes a fun, fitted pink board short, proving that this look doesn't need to be baggy, and fitted "rimini swim trunks," with an olive (almost chartreuse) pattern and cheeky floral trim. In addition to online sales, Mr. Turk has more than 15 locations nationwide, from Honolulu to Miami.

Dan Ward, a veteran of Herm�s, Bally and Calvin Klein, launched his own brand in 2012. You can build a distinctive, upmarket resort wardrobe from his pieces, which include polos, paneled shorts with a retro feel and a few select choices for your feet, including handsome black slides with braided cords. His pieces are available at Saks in New York and online, as well as at a number of resorts.

Though Parke & Ronen has officially been a brand for 20 years this summer (they've been a couple even longer), Parsons School of Design grad Parke Luther and partner Ronen Jehezkel were creating fashion even before they opened a Chelsea boutique in 1997, with Jehezkel "making clothes in his loft and selling them at street fairs," says Luther. Today, with four collections a year (tanks, hoodies, loungewear and more), their runway shows are Fashion Week standouts.

"We added a swimwear line in 2002 on a whim, simply because we thought there were no good swimsuits. No one was doing men's swimwear from a fashion point of view. And then it kind of blew up."

Luther admits their fashion-focused swimwear competition is heating up, but Parke & Ronen continues to lead the pack, inspired by the competition. "Our connection to the gay community is pretty easy and natural," he says. "We've been partners in business and in life since the beginning."

One new brand is trying to fill a functional niche for those who really love the beach and don't want to go back to their rooms before going out: Zurich-based Andrew & Cole. Launched in December 2016 and sold exclusively online, the brand sounds like the joyous lovechild of resort wear and Under Armour.

"On vacation in Ibiza, I spent eight hours on a boat, went to lunch on an island and by mid-afternoon felt really uncomfortable with the netting in my swimsuit," says Julian Schaffner, who launched the brand with business partner Vincent Stadelhofer (the name's a mashup of their middle names).

The inspiration was to fulfill a vision of creating a collection for men that could be worn comfortably for more than five hours. The difference is a full liner, which is illustrated on the website. UK-based women's swimwear/lingerie designer Nichole De Carle stepped in to offer her expertise.

Their shorts replace traditional netting with lining made from 95% nylon/5% spandex - similar to the material used in bikinis. Available in regular and low-cut versions, these "ocean shorts" come in a range of bright colors and designs, including ones inspired by dayira circle patterns and the hammam spa experience.

"We do think about ourselves when we create pieces," says Schaffner. "You want to look cool in swim shorts and be able to put on a white shirt and head to a bar." Schaffner adds that Andrew & Cole shorts are flattering to all body types, saying, "We had to include larger sizes or our dads wouldn't have forgiven us."

There are no "dad bods" on an Andrew Christian beach, just a lot of young muscle and a few well-maintained daddies. And that's OK: You've done the work, and maybe the Gods have been generous - now show it for the rest of us to enjoy. "While we have a strong base of straight clientele, the vast majority of our customers are in the gay community," says Jeff White, cofounder with Christian of the popular, affordable American brand, which has made sizable donations to HRC and the Trevor Project.

Also turning 20 this year, Andrew Christian began as an underwear line and expanded into swimwear later on. The aesthetic is the same: fun, affordable pieces ($5 to $60) designed to make tight bodies look even better, incorporating bun-lifting Wonderbra technology, among other enhancements.

"Our bikinis and trunks incorporate our 'show-it' technology and an anatomically correct pouch to increase volume in all the right areas," says White. Andrew Christian sells briskly online, as well as in boutiques and a few department stores, including Nordstrom.

Whether you've chosen hyper sexy or something more sedate, after you've assembled your look, add a bit of humor with a "Golden Girls" tee or beach-friendly tote from the Canadian queens at Swish Embassy. Tote options include a nelly lumberjack, "Dynasty" catfight, Mermen (think underwater hunks, not Ethel) and "staunch patriot" Little Edie standing defiantly in front of Grey Gardens.


by Andy Smith

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