April 19, 2010
Destination California :: Napa
Eric Rosen READ TIME: 16 MIN.
In his last Destination California feature, EDGE contributor Eric Rosen shared some super San Diego sights. This month, Eric heads north for some wine-fueled fun in California's epicurean playground, Napa Valley. World-class vintages, gourmet restaurants, cutting-edge spas, and even a few physical adventures (no, not of that sort!)-Eric shares it all as he eats and drinks his way through the vineyards.
In addition to making some of the best wines in the world, Napa Valley has the added advantage of being just an hour away from one of the country's most popular LGBT getaways, San Francisco, and is easily accessible from the airport as well as that of Oakland.
Napa is the name of the Valley and its largest town, though there are three other main towns between Highway 29, the main artery of the Valley, and the Silverado Trail. From south to north, those include Yountville, St. Helena and Calistoga, with a few other hamlets like Oakville and Rutherford sprinkled into the mix. It is here that visitors will find some of California's best restaurants, hotels, and, of course, the over 400 wineries that have made this region famous. And before you ask, I'll be covering Carneros in another piece, so stay tuned for that in a few months.
DRINK IT ALL IN
Admit it, the real reason to come to Napa is for the wine, so pack your days with winery visits galore since you can run the gamut of reds and whites, from shockingly quaffable table wines to high-priced rare finds.
See where Napa Valley as we know it was born with a visit to the iconic Robert Mondavi Winery, right at the heart of the Valley near Rutherford. Sure, it might not be the most unusual or quirky experience, but it stands as a testament to Mondavi's vision for all that Napa could (and since has) become. It is a fitting first stop on any Napa itinerary, and the gift shop can be your one-stop wonderland of presents for friends back home.
Back between Napa and Yountville, Trefethen has one of the friendliest staffs, and the winery, which was built in the 19th century, is a national historical landmark.
Domaine Chandon, just on the other side of Highway 29 from Yountville, is usually a happening spot thanks to its bubbly bar and renowned restaurant, and is a great place to learn how champagne is made. Nearby
Ma(i)sonry, just across the street from The French Laundry in Yountville and constructed in the same style, is sort of like a tasting room cooperative among several wineries including Blackbird Vineyards and Lail Vineyards, as well as an art gallery, furniture store, outdoor tasting room, and live music venue on certain evenings.
Cliff Lede Vineyards, right between Yountville and the Silverado Trail, has a state-of-the-art winemaking facility, and a casual, cottage-like tasting room, with a sculpture garden out back to enjoy while sipping their wines.
Tom Gamble of Gamble Family Vineyards is a Napa native, and tastings at his winery are a down-home experience, where he'll pour you sips of his wines on the deck at his Stag's Leap property, then bundle you into his 1963 GMC pickup for a ride through the vineyards as he gives you the scoop on the area and its inhabitants with all the dirt that only a local would know.
Just around the corner on the Silverado Trail, Robert Sinskey Vineyards has delightful gardens out front, yummy bites to nibble while sipping their wines, and a hidden private dining room burrowed deep in the cellar caves.
Stop by its neighbor, Silverado Vineyards, for the view from Stag's Leap, as you sip some crisp whites and robust reds on the outdoor terrace.
Near Rutherford (between Yountville and St. Helena), Peju Province Winery has grounds that resemble a French chateau, and one of the best gift shops in the Valley, while
Frog's Leap has a fun tour that highlights all its sustainability measures (again, in a fun way that includes shooting hoops), as well as lovely grounds perfect for a midday picnic.
NAPA’S LITTLE SECRET
I'm actually reluctant to mention Elizabeth Spencer Wines, since this is a true hidden find, and a gem of a winery thanks to its high-quality, hand-crafted wines, and a darling tiny tasting room in what used to be the old Rutherford Post Office.
Grgich Hills Estate's tasting room might not be much to look at, but the man behind it is partly responsible for putting Napa on the map, so you can be sure of trying some amazing wines there. What's more, they're made biodynamically, and the winery is powered completely with solar panels, so drinking here is good for the environment!
Then there are two new wineries that have recently opened and which can entertain guests upon appointment. Quill Wines specializes in concentrated Cabernets come from some of Napa's most sought-after mountain appellations, and Vellum Wines makes Cabernet Sauvignons in the style of red Bordeaux from St. Julien (meaning they're powerful but with a food-friendly acidity). Both wineries produce only a few limited addition wines, so a tasting at either is a real treat.
Gemstone Vineyard a small, family-owned winery, produces full-bodied red Bordeaux varietals on its 16-acre hillside property that will please any lover of California reds. They offer tastings by appointment only that include barrel samples and one-on-one time with the winery staff.
I frequently tell friends visiting Napa on a tight schedule that if they only have time for one winery, they should be absolutely sure, to make time for Gargiulo Vineyards. On Oakville Cross Road, the same neighborhood as some of Napa's most celebrated "cult wineries" like Screaming Eagle, Gargiulo makes phenomenal wines of the same caliber. The stylish tasting room is constructed from salvaged local materials, including the former gymnasium floor of St. Helena High School, and wooden beams from a decommissioned bridge. Music lovers will enjoy owner Jeff Gargiulo's collection of rare guitars (especially if he starts strumming one while tasting along with you), and shoppers can get the inside gossip on local galleries from his daughter, April Gargiulo.
Up toward Calistoga, Napa enthusiasts can taste a drop of history at Chateau Montelena, whose Chardonnay (made by Mike Grgich at the time) put Napa on the map when they beat out French white wines in a tasting contest in 1976 in Paris.
PAIRING OFF
What good is wine without food, though? Napa is also a serious foodie destination. So if you're there for any length of time, chances are you'll have a great meal at one of the following places, not to mention the dozens more that we don't have room to list here!
Relaxed as Napa is, sometimes you're on a tight schedule, so the easiest and best thing to do for lunch is to pick up a few picnic provisions. After all, every meal can't be seven courses (though wouldn't that be great?). Soda Canyon Store at the start of the Silverado Trail is a perfect place to pick up a pre-composed salad or made-to-order sandwich and enjoy out on the patio, especially when the crowd at the
Oakville Grocer gets out of control...as it does just about every day in summer around noon. Then there's the old standby, Dean and Deluca, right on Highway 29 for lunch on the run plus some cookies to go.
Thomas Keller is the king of Napa dining, with a trio of restaurants right in Yountville, depending on what level of income you just reported to the IRS. The most famous is The French Laundry, for those who have the foresight to call several months in advance...and to mortgage their home to pay for the meal. Then there's
The other buzzy new restaurant in Yountville comes courtesy of another celebrity chef, Michael Chiarello, whose Bottega is the hardest table to get in Napa these days. Either make your reservation far in advance, or take your chances and try to snag a table in the bar area, where you can still enjoy the full menu of dishes like a salad of shaved Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds, sieved egg, pecorino cheese, and citrus vinaigrette.
Those looking for a more laidback French dinner should head to Bistro Jeanty, with a bicycle jauntily perched out front. California cuisine owes much of its flair to Asian influences, though, so consider a meal at Redd in Yountville for the best glazed pork belly outside San Francisco.
James Beard Award-winning chef Cindy Pawclyn might be better known for her fancy Mustard's Grill on Highway 29 (called the St. Helena Highway in this part of the Valley), but when the locals go out for a nice dinner, they hit her other restaurant, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, in a quieter part of St. Helena, for her famous rabbit tostada.
It's the Craftsman architecture at Martini House that will capture your attention, though the food is also fantastic, especially when Chef Todd Humphries works his magic on a special mushroom menu (special menu, not special mushrooms!).
Those with simpler appetites can head for a burger and a milkshake at Taylor's Automatic Refresher on the south side of town, while those up for a little kitchen experimentation can see what the students are cooking up for dinner at the Culinary Institute at Greystone, where you can also take cooking classes yourself.
Up in Calistoga, Wappo Bar and Bistro is named after the tribe of Native Americans that used to inhabit the region, and serves up an assortment of farm-fresh, simple California classics, while Brannan's Grill has the upscale pub grub to make your Hungry Man happy.
SLEEP IT OFF
Most people skip the town of Napa itself for the more picturesque parts of the Valley farther north, but there are plenty of great accommodation options down south. One of the most popular new properties in Napa is the Westin Verasa, thanks to its membership in the Starwood Hotels family group.
The River Terrace Inn, River Terrace Inn is an easy option right in the center of things, with rooms going for about $130 in low season, while those with a bit more in their budget will enjoy the quiet, creekside ambiance of the Milliken Creek Inn & Spa at the very start of the Silverado Trail, or the nostalgic luxury of the Victorian-style 1801 First.
The next town farther up the Valley is Yountville, and this is where the hotels really start to get interesting. Villaggio Inn and Spa and Vintage Inn are sister properties, and are laid out the same way, with four rooms (two up, two down) in buildings scattered around the grounds, a large pool, and sumptuous breakfast included in the room rate. The spa at Villaggio is also one of the most deluxe in the Valley. Those who favor a country French aesthetic should stay at the Vintage Inn, while those whose tastes tend to be more Mediterranean will enjoy the positively palatial rooms at Villaggio.
The Yountville Inn, right at the entrance to town off Highway 29, has rooms at more reasonable prices, and with romantic touches like stone fireplaces in the rooms.
The eco-friendly Bardessono has attained new standards in environmentally conscious construction, and also hosts a fun Wednesday night "Dive Bar" party at the second-story pool with a view of the Valley during the summer. The guest suites all have in-room spa amenities in the humongous bathrooms, and there are trickling water features running throughout the grounds. Its restaurant serves a gourmet menu made with locally sourced, organic produce, some of it grown in the hotel's own gardens.
The other new hotel is the Tuscan-style Hotel Luca, with W-chic rooms and luxurious bathrooms. It is just down the street from The French Laundry, though its restaurant, Cantinetta Piero, serves simpler, Italian fare.
Poetry Inn is the place for a splurge vacation. Operated by Cliff Lede Vineyards, the secluded inn has just three rooms and two suites, in a converted house up on a ridge in the Stag's Leap District with every modern amenity, as well as some unusual ones like private chefs to make you dinner, and outdoor showers on the room balconies.
Napa Valley Railway Inn wins the award for the most eccentric, though it's also a great bargain to stay in one of the converted train cars that serve as rooms (and yes, there's plumbing, so don't worry about the bathroom).
As we head farther north in the Valley, the accommodations become a little more...country inn-ish, with a few notable exceptions. The Auberge du Soleil needs no introduction. Probably the best-known of Napa's luxury lodgings, the rooms are worth the hefty price tag. But if you just can't swing it, you can still enjoy one of the best views of the Valley by stopping by for lunch on the terrace.
Meadowood provides a quieter, more reserved setting for luxury leisure, its cottages, suites and lodges set on a huge property off the Silverado Trail that is also ideal for golfers, tennis players, and even croquet enthusiasts.
Closer in to town are two other great options. The first is a satellite property operated by Meadowood. Inn at Southbridge is just off Highway 29 at the southern end of town, and features huge double rooms with king-size beds and cathedral ceilings.
The best budget option in town is the retro-charming El Bonita Motel, where guests can just pull in, park, and relax at the pool after a day of wine-tasting. Its various rooms go for just a fraction of the price as at other hotels in the area, even in the high summer season.
And in the final town of the Valley, Calistoga, you'll find a genial mixture of ultra-luxe and ultra-casual lodgings. The Calistoga Inn is the budget option in town, and has a convivial microbrewery restaurant downstairs.
Calistoga Ranch is the rustic-luxe destination of choice for captains of industry and well-off spa enthusiasts, while environmentally friendly overachievers prefer its younger sister property, Solage Calistoga, which also has an acclaimed spa on the property.
The Chanric Inn is a gay-friendly B&B-but not in the annoying way with teddy bears, floral quilts and lace curtains. Instead, its rooms are decorated in muted chic color palettes, and teh gourmet kitchen that serves up some of the best breakfasts in Napa, making for a much more intimate, personalized stay.
GET SWEATY...AND MUDDY
There's more to do in Napa than just eat and drink, though. Most of the fine spas in the Valley are at the hotels and resorts listed above, but there are plenty of other non-pampering activities to keep you sharp, even during a day of wine-tasting. Visitors can indulge in pastimes like hot air ballooning, bicycling, kayaking, and mud-bathing.
One of the best ways to see the Valley is from the air, so though it might be pricey (in the hundreds of dollars...per person!) and require you to get up before dawn, consider a hot air balloon ride one of the days you are there. Chances are breakfast and a champagne toast are included. Some of the most dependable operators in Napa include Napa Valley Aloft, and Balloons Above the Valley.
For those who prefer to remain planted firmly on the ground, the seat of a bike might be the best way to see the Valley...and work up an appetite for all that good food. Napa Valley Bike Tours pretty much has a corner on the market, but that's okay because not only do they run guided tours to several wineries each day, but they also rent out bikes for self-guided rides and tours, so you can really tailor your experience to your own needs.
Visitors can also kayak on the Napa River now thanks to organizers like Kayak NV, which rents out equipment at moderate prices, and schedules guided tours and eco-adventures in the heart of Napa. Napa Valley Adventures is another great outfitter that caters to more active travelers with everything from biking and kayaking, to hiking and rock climbing.
Let's not forget about the natural feature that made Calistoga a famous spa destination in the first place: its mud baths. Though there are a few options in town (and some really luxurious ones at Calistoga Ranch and Solage), one of the most authentic, old-timey experiences can be had at Indian Springs, a health retreat from the 19th century that was at one time owned by Leland Stanford. Though the classic wellness facilities could use a little updating-including the humongous hot springs pool and changing cabanas-the experience is still top-notch. Health-seekers pay $85 to be covered in nutrient-rich, black volcanic mud heated by natural geyser steam before soaking in mineral water and cooling off. It's a great way to sweat out the toxins after a day of sun and wine, but be sure to stay hydrated!
IMPULSE BUYS
What kind of vacation would it be without at least a little shopping thrown in? Though you should save your money to buy wines to take home with you, we won't blame you if you can't resist a little window-gazing and boutique perusal. Skip the usual Napa haunts and Thomas Kincaid-ish arcades of St. Helena for some of these exceptional establishments.
One of the best shopping experiences in Napa is at the famous Oxbow Public Market in Napa itself, where shoppers can find everything from spices to fresh produce to cheese and chocolate, and there are often events and musical performances there to enjoy as well.
The Bardessono gift shop isn't your typical hotel shop, but is instead more like a really cool urban boutique dedicated to artisanal items ranging from Peruvian alpaca throws to Japanese bamboo baskets, to French candles to jewelry and bed linens, all curated by artist Matt Dick.
Nearby is Ma(i)sonry, which, in addition to pouring various wineries' labels, is a design showroom and gallery that sells just about everything you'd need to decorate your house eccentrically, like oversize redwood furniture, designer lamps, and wall art.
Among the many kitschy stores lining the quaint streets of St. Helena, lies the edgier showroom of interior designer Erin Martin, selling everything from uber-expensive crystal chandeliers to hand-blown glass bongs to a coffee table book on butts. No joke. Even if you're not buying, you'll have a good time looking.
Finally, long experience has taught me that, when wine-tasting, you're likely to have a dribble or two. If you ruin a shirt or jacket and need to replace on in a hurry, head to Napa Premium Outlets for a quick trip to Barney's...and a long day of credit card wear and tear.
THE DREGS
With some of California's finest restaurants, premier hotels and resorts, fabulous spas, exciting outdoor activities, and, of course, some of the best wines in the country, Napa can offer something to tempt any traveler. The only hard part will be leaving.
Watch for Eric's upcoming features on other popular destinations in California.
